I may be a bit late for the party, but in case anyone in the future stumbles across this problem... In current version of node-amqp (0.2.4) you can check both message count and number of currently subscribed consumers when declaring a queue.
var connection = require("amqp").createConnection();
connection.exchange("exampleExchange", {/*...*/}, function(exchange) {
connection.queue("exampleQueue", {/*...*/}, function(queue, messageCount, consumerCount){
console.log("Message count", messageCount);
console.log("Consumer count", consumerCount);
});
});